The two-hour taxi ride from Saidia, Morocco to Melilla, Spain was expensive—almost $50 US—but the driver, Si Driss, was loquacious, and educated enough to discuss history and current events in an Arabic register that I could understand. When I half-jokingly referred to Melilla al-muhtala, bihal al-Quds al-muhtala (Occupied Melilla, like Occupied Jerusalem) he laughed and...
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